They are one of Istria’s major brands. Even the ancient Romans were fond of them and one legend has it that Jupiter’s thunder had a role in their creation. The association is, according to some, erotic in nature: Jupiter was a well-known lover and they are one of the most famous and expensive aphrodisiacs known today. Byron kept one on his desk for inspiration. There is a dilemma about whether they are food or merely a spice, but they have admirers the world over. Often, they are more expensive than gold.
Istria’s Truffle Days ended mid November. Croatia’s north-western part is one of the very few places in the world, together with some regions in Italy, which are home to the precious white truffle (tuber magnatum pico). Its black cousin (the black truffle; tuber aestivum vitt, tuber ubicatum, tuber melanu sporum) is somewhat more dispersed. The Istrian white truffle, said to be the finest in the world, grows in the Motovun forest, in the valley of the River Mirna. It is the particular combination of clay-rich soil, humid woods, and mild climatic conditions which make for its existence.
The truffle grows underground, usually in the roots of oaks (but also other trees), and it can only be found with the help of specially trained dogs or pigs. A German hound by the name of Diana, owned by Istria’s famous truffle hunter Giancarlo Zigante is the honoured finder of the world’s biggest white truffle. On 2 November 1999, Diana found 1.3 kg truffle which was later recognised by the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s biggest. Zigante named it “Millennium” and had it cast in bronze before serving at a dinner for some 100 invitees, with the aim of promoting Istria and its truffle industry. The anniversary of the momentous discovery is traditionally marked during Istria’s Truffle Days.
The white truffle looks like an odd-shaped potato and it has a particular, intensive scent. Truffles in general are categorized by their shape, colour, size, taste, or aroma. Of the over 60 types of tuber in existence, around 25 can be found in the areas of Istria and Italy. However, less than a dozen of these are actually edible, and only 3-4 can be found in specialised shops.
Whereas the black truffle is found all year round, the white one’s season starts late summer and lasts until early winter. This is also when the Istrian Truffle Days are organised. They are in essence a grouping of several thematically related events, such as the Subotina in Buzet, featuring a giant (2,000-eggs large) truffle frittata and a truffle weekend, as well as the Tuberfest in Livade organised by Zigante. Over the years the festival has grown in scope as well as popularity. In the past it lasted just a few days; now it goes for over a month and it has many international visitors. Truffle lovers come all the way from Russia and Japan. Truffle Day activities include everything from truffle tasting, truffle hunts, auctions, exhibits, and so forth. Other Istrian products, such as honey, olive oil, and wine, are promoted at the occasion.